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Belgium

Belgium

The small country of Belgium provided excellent grounds to explore with family especially during my favorite time of year, autumn, with low afternoon light, turning leaves and quieter streets. We moved throughout the country and spent time in various areas, particularly the Flanders region where Dutch is common. Belgium's medieval cities are filled with not only beautiful buildings, canals and old churches but also with all the delicious things you would expect - chocolate, waffles and beer. 

Brugge

Brugge is a nicely sized town in West Flanders, Belgium. Its cobbled street, bold architecture, winding canals and of course overwhelming smell of waffles and chocolate make it a wonderful city to experience. Wander the shop packed streets, market square and smaller alleys by foot, but also be sure to save time for a boat tour. The boat tours are short but the view of the city from the water is a whole new perspective on the city. Grab a table outside in one of the many squares to enjoy a coffee or perhaps a Belgian beer while sketching the buildings or even reading. Church bells and tall steeples are visible from all over the city so it's always easy to identify the next church to visit. The Church of Our Lady is one worth visiting. Begijnhuisje is a Begijnhof in the city center where nuns are still living in the community. Silence is required within the walls so this is the perfect place for a peaceful stroll, especially in September when the leaves are beginning to turn a magnificent yellow in the golden afternoon sun. We were lucky enough to see and hear the sisters signing in the church during our visit. Brugge is a place that I think has something special to offer for many. 

EAT & DRINK:

  • Achiel - recommended for lunch or an afternoon treat. Sit outside in the small courtyard and enjoy a glass of rose with one of the daily specials 
  • Le Trappiste - a beer cave that serves all the delicious beers, of course in their appropriate glasses
  • Het Hof Van Rembrandt - this cafe just off the main square is an ideal place to sit mid morning in the sun for a long lunch or quick stop
  • Malesherbes - the smallest French restaurant tucked off a busy street. There are only about 5 tables here and the hours aren't long. The food and wine are delicious and the lady serving us, from seemingly her home, was patient and fun for our large group 
  • Waffles and Chocolate - you can get these really anywhere, I would recommend eating them every day. The waffles are like a caramelized mix between croissant and bagel. The chocolate is, well, chocolatey. My favorites were the hazelnut chocolates shaped like acorns and mushrooms.

SHOP: Our first day in Brugge we parked on a street not far from the main square, Ezelstraat, and it just happened to be a street packed with trendy restaurants and shops removed from the chaos of a touristic city. My favorites places to see the style were Boetiek Ruth for a nice outfit, Gouts et Couleurs for simple home design and Serendipity for more home furnishings. 

Ghent 

We only had time for a day visit to Ghent but of course filled it up and enjoyed every moment. Here is what we enjoyed most: 

  • Julie's House serves a delicious a la carte breakfast and tarts to go. The whole surrounding area is known for foodies, but we enjoyed our meal sitting in the upstairs loft of this small place. Wasbar serves delicious soups and bagels for lunch.
  • The Design Museum Gent is also worth a visit. It's not packed with information, but the exhibit when we visited was focused on textiles and patterns and I really enjoyed a casual walk through the displays. 
  • So remember how I keep mentioning chocolate? Well it's all really good, but I particularly liked Chocolate Cedric Van Hoorebeke. Try one of all of them, trust me.
  • While exploring a back alley some large rolls of yarn caught my attention in a shop window. So I pursued and found a large art shop called Golden Plume Art Center. It had everything art related, just in case you're in need.
  • Visit the Het Belfort van Gent church which holds the tallest belfry in all of Belgium. Be sure to stand under and look directly up, its pretty impressive. More churches and even the strongest held castle in Western Europe can also be visited here in Ghent.
  • Wander by the library through Koning Albertpark and in the nearby University Campus. Nothing to see in particular, but just a nice play to walk and experience the liveliness of the university.

Ypres

Ypres is a historical town that gained its significance in World War I as the battleground where many soldiers died. It was a major British stand on the western front and it was here that the Allies battled the Germans who were coming from the north. Today decorative poppies, the symbol for remembrance, can be found all over this quaint town in southern Belgium. Store fronts and museums share images of the town before and after the war and display machine guns used at the time - both shocking to the core. It's not a large city, but I would absolutely recommend a day trip to experience the power and history. Be sure to visit the main gate, Menin Gate, which is guarded by lion statues and covered with poppies and inscribed names of the lost soldiers - climb the staircase and if time permits walk along the city wall. The main square is home to an old textile factory and right behind that a magnificent church. Both are wroth visiting, especially the church which is covered by stained glass that glows all sorts of colors in the midmorning. Stop in Del Olifant for a leisurely lunch. We sat out back in the sun and ordered rose accompanied with homemade chili, lamb stew, fresh veg and of course cheese. This was one of my favorite restaurant visits here: tasty, stylish and comfortable. Old Tom is another place worth stopping in the main square for a coffee while admiring the buildings that surround. Just outside the center of Ypres is the large Commonwealth cemetery that is nice for a walk an quiet moment to remember. 

Brussels

After a handful days exploring the smaller quaint cities of Belgium, Brussels came as a bit of a shock to me - industrial and busy. That said, it still has it's charm and plenty to explore. I would recommend the following places to visit.

  • Hotel Amigo - for a nice treat stay at this comfortable hotel near the Grand Place square. Yes, European breakfast buffets are generally my favorite thing and this one is especially tasty
  • My favorite museum that we visited in Brussels was the Horta Museum, the house of architect Victor Horta which is dedicated to Belgian Art Nouveau style. It is a quick walk through the intricate multi-story building. It is honestly completely breathtaking and such a unique style from what we see today. Unfortunately no photos allowed so I can't share - you will have to visit yourself. Stop at nearby bakery Forcado Pastelaria for a treat and art break.
  • Explore Saint Giles and the area surrounding. Walk through Vossenplein on a Sunday morning to experience the local flea market. The nearby shops also sell antiques, some nicer than the others. A nearby brunch or lunch can be enjoyed at L'Aubette - we shared a veg heavy salad.
  • Enjoy late afternoon or evening fun at Chez Richard. We passed this bar many times while exploring - its outdoor tables overflowing with people enjoying themselves. On our last evening we shared numerous wines here with some light appetizers and the sound of live Jazz music outside. Lively for sure.
  • Parc de Bruxelles is a nice place to stroll through. It is especially quiet and nice to enjoy the trees on a Sunday morning.
  • Jardin Botanique was not a particularly pretty botanical garden but it is free and an ok destination if looking for some different areas to explore.
  • Walk from the center along Rue Antioine Dansaert for some trendy window shopping and lively squares and restaurants. Stop at OR Espresso Bar for a homemade ginger iced tea and Oficina for more organic veg heavy meals.