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Stockholm

Stockholm

I really like Stockholm. Although a large city, it somehow still feels peaceful. I visited in October and just completely fell in love with the combination of the fall colors and soft low light decorating the beautiful buildings that can be seen in every direction. The neighborhoods of Stockholm spread across islands and waterways which makes for great exploration by boat or foot as well as constantly good views of the city. I only spent a few quick days here for work but was able to fit in some great exploration and of course meals. I hope to come back some day soon and enjoy it even more!

food & Drink

I have a special love for Nordic food: the local ingredients, unique flavors and lighter dishes. Here are my favorite meals from my stay.

  • Tradition - as the name suggests this place serves more traditional Swedish foods. I tried shrimp toast and mushroom filled dumplings with chocolate truffle for dessert. Highly recommend this place and very much enjoyed the style and energy of this small restaurant in Gamla Stan. 
  • Smörgåstårteriet - one of my favorite life meals. I came here as a self treat and enjoyed the tasting menu. Not only was the decoration, staff and space perfect, but the food was just amazing. The menu was a fun mix of vegetables, fish and a bit of meat. The ingredients were from various corners of Sweden and brought together to create new mixes of flavors and textures. Highlights were the cauliflower cream with roe and dill, langoustine with browned butter and celeriac, and of course the carbonated yoghurt with iced celery, oil and salt. Yum yum yum. 
  • Smak - yes, another nordic restaurant. I stopped here for lunch and tried the fish stew. Tasty but not as cosy as the others I tried. 

See & DO

As with most places, one of my favorite activities is to get lost walking the streets and parks of the city. Be sure to see Gamla Stan which is an island and the old city. The cobbled streets are filled with many things to see. Stop by the Nobel Museum to learn more about the history and winners of the Nobel Peace Prize. Skeppsholmen, the next island over, is quieter but nice to walk around under glowing yellow trees. From here it is possible to take a short ferry to Djurgarden which is yet another, this time larger, island that is covered in dirt trails and trees. I went here for a morning run and took the ferry on the way back. Norrmalm is the busier working and shopping part of town.. Lots of new businesses here and more of the bustle to be expected in a city, especially on Queen Street. One of the main squares here had a farmers market each day and I have never seen so many delicious looking mushrooms in my life, they must have been in season. Also pumpkins and lingonberries! Kungstradgarden, or King's Garden, is another nice urban garden for a run, walk or sit and watch. Mosebacke is an artsy part of town and nearby SoFo is a trendy and hip neighborhood to see.

Fotografiska is one of the best museums ever. It is open late at night, so I spent a few hours here after dinner exploring three different photography exhibits. First was a Swedish photo journalist exhibition, called "Being There", which documented what it looks and feels like in difficult corners of the world in war and in celebration. Second was an exhibit called "Last Night in Sweden" with 32 photos displaying what happens in the evenings for regular people in Sweden, contrary to the contortion and alternative facts of today's world. Lastly was "Autumn Salon" which was a varied collection of photos highlighting nature in its many forms from various Swedish artists. There is a bar and restaurant upstairs as well for a snack of evening cocktail!

stay

Hotel Skeppsholmen is a simple hotel on a quiet island of Stockholm. I loved being surrounded by trees and still able to walk around town. In the evenings, a beautiful sunset over Stockholm can be be enjoyed here. The rooms are comfortable and of course decorated with Swedish style. The welcome gift was a bag of the most delicious Swedish Fish (made in Malmo). 

Hotel Sven Vintappare is a small bed and breakfast in an alley of Gamla Stan. The hotel is comfortable and serves breakfast in a cosy downstairs cafe each morning, with Bon Iver playing in the background. The location is perfect to explore the old town and access other neighborhoods. 

shop

I love Scandinavian style, so obviously my trip included some shopping. I would recommend checking out the classic Swedish styles while in Stockholm, such as Acne Archive and Swedish Hasbeens. A few other shops I enjoyed were Iris Hantverk,  Swedish goods in Gamla Stan, E Torndahl, home goods and locally made lotions, ORDNING&REDA, a Scandanavian art supply and stationary shop, and finally Designmarknad, with pottery and decorations from local artists.