Sicily, Italy

Oh, Sicily, you are wonderful. And I must say, a visit to this Italian island in the Mediterranean sea may well be the perfect vacation. Imagine a trip that includes swimming in perfectly clear waters, viewing Greek and Roman ruins, visiting countless churches, sampling fresh foods (ok, mostly pasta and wine), learning to cook local cuisine, hiking, painting and reading, exploring winding streets of ancient cities, and driving through countryside listening to tunes. Well that is Sicily. Yes. All of it. On one island...We spent 5 days exploring the southeast corner of Sicily and could have easily spent more time. There is just so much to experience and take in.

SIRACUSA

Of all the places we visited, Siracusa is probably the most touristy but also had the most to offer visitors. The old historic part of the city, called Ortigia, is actually an island and where we spent most of our time while in Siracusa. We stayed at the Antico Hotel Roma 1880 just off the Piazza Duomo which displays many beautiful Baroque buildings of Syracuse. It was a perfect location to explore the city and also offered potentially the best ever buffet breakfast that can be enjoyed outside in the morning sun (the food options spanned four rooms and included mini cannoli, enough said). We liked exploring the varying streets - back alleyways and courtyards with hidden leather shops like Il piacere della pelle or stylish Italian shops like Chiodo, main shopping streets, restaurant packed plazas and of course the roads outlining the old city that provide a view of the sea. The activity level varies drastically throughout the day, and we found it very true, especially during the hot times of year, that most things shut down from 1-5 in the afternoon. The best thing to do during these times is enjoy the ocean, a refreshing granite or perhaps cremolata, or if it's your style enjoy the afternoons like many locals - napping, probably in the sun. Most people were out in the evenings as the temperature cools and the streets begin to vibrate with energy again. Catch the sunset with a sea view at one of the many outdoor bars (note, sunsets are best enjoyed with a glass of prosecco). Many restaurants were packed and we ended up at one with a courtyard and pasta and of course finished with gelato afterwards. The recommended gelato flavor, my personal favorite from the trip, is ricotta with chocolate, mmmm. For a casual lunch, we tried a small place tucked into an alley. You guessed it, we had pasta and seafood.

The mornings are quiet and nice for a run and then dip in the sea to cool off. One large rock near where we swam provided a lounging pad for many overly tanned Italians, clearly a favorite activity on hot afternoons. Of course there are many museums and churches to visit here too. We only had time for a few and would recommend walking into the Duomo (Greek temple transformed to a Christian church) and Galleria Regionale Di Palazzo Bellomo which is a Sicilian art gallery in a twelfth century palace, peaceful courtyard included. We also spent time at the market in the square of Temple of Apollo which sells all sorts of local foods. Come here to see loads of fresh seafood (poor octopuses), giant prawns, men preparing sea urchins, piles of almonds and pistachios, local sweets and of course the juiciest produce you can imagine. Just outside of Siracusa at the Archaeological Park there are two old amphitheaters, one Greek which was first built in the fifth century BC and another one Roman. There is also a giant cave that was used water storage many centuries ago. Apparently shows are still played here, but even just a day visit is a nice way to experience the history.

RAGUSA

Ragusa is a stunning city perched on the hillside in the middle of seemingly nowhere. We had read online that as approaching the city by car one might gasp in awe at the site. We joked about it, but really it is true! I have complete shock at the beauty of this city (maybe due in part to the fact that it is so precariously sitting on the hill it might just fall off at any time). The Duomo di San Giorgio stands boldly in the skyline and is obvious from miles away. We parked near the Duomo and walked around the curved streets gaining and losing altitude quickly. My favorite view of the Duomo was actually from above on the staircase at Via Solarino, probably because this is an unusual view of such a large dome. The Giardino Ibleo (garden) is another nice stroll under the trees. Truthfully, the main reason we visited Ragusa, was to pay a visit to the two Michelin start Duomo Ristorante for a lunchtime fixed Italian menu. How could one turn that down anyways? The meal consisted of all the delicious treats to be expected in Sicily - pasta, seafood, pistachios, olives, wine, cannoli, gelato, and so on. The restaurant is tucked away near the base of the Duomo with upscale Italian style inside. I would absolutely recommend this for a lunch visit, and perhaps dinner if you want to go big.

MODICA

I think it's safe to say that Modica took my heart. It is another Baroque town that is listed as UNESCO. The city sits in a steep valley where rivers used to run and consists of two areas- Modica Alta (upper) and Modica Bassa (lower). The city has over 100 churches and the bells can be heard from most parts. We stayed at Casa Talia which may very well be my dream come true hotel. The hotel concept is slowliving and the Sicilian word Talia literally means “Look! Admire!" which is so appropriate. The main room of the hotel used to be a horse stable, and the individual rooms which surround a lush garden have been redone in Mediterranean style by two Milanese architects who have fallen in love with Modica and made it their home by purchasing ruins and redeveloping them into a hotel. The garden has a fig tree, olive tree, plum tree, lemon tree, large jasmine bushes, numerous chairs and lounging beds and an amazing view over the historic city, including the largest Duomo di San Giorgio (yes, same name as the one in Ragusa). We spent many good hours here, especially in the mornings and evenings which was perfect for sunset because the city would light up in a golden orange and the lights all over would slowly flicker on. Casa Talia also organized a cooking class for us with a friend who has excellent culinary skills (and very spoke little English - ha!) We learned how to make three local dishes and enjoyed all courses with the chef, his wife, Marco (the architect from Talia) and of course Giani the pup. Not only do we have some excellent Sicilian tricks in our pocket now, but the experience is one we will never forget. Also we learned that the 3 olive trees around Casa Talia make 25L of olive oil a year, which is only half as much as a family will use - aka there is no shortcutting on the olive oil usage here. Casa Talia served breakfast outside every morning under a giant olive tree, again with a view over the city that would never get old.

The main walking street is at the bottom of the valley and bustling with tourists and cars, so we spent more of our time climbing around the area of Modica Alta. The best walk is probably up the stairs leading to the Duomo which are surrounded by gardens and flowers. If extra motivated, a climb to the top of the bell tower in the Duomo is worth it for a view. The gardens here play music certain nights of the week and we were able to catch some late night jazz on a Sunday. Another church that we enjoyed visiting is the Chiesa di San Nicolo Inferiore. This church was not discovered until recently as it had been mostly destroyed in the earthquake of 1693 that devastated the area. Now, only bits of the structure and Byzantine art on the rock walls remain. This area is also known for chocolate production which originated from Aztec techniques, so is slightly spicier than normal chocolate. I would recommend stopping into Antica Dolceria Bonajuto to sample the different flavors and see the production activities.

For us, Modica was also filled with the best food we had in Sicily. One night we ate at Trattoria Ristorante Il Girasole Di Colombo Corrado, which was a very local hole in the wall outside the main part of the city. The pasta was cheap, homemade and delicious. And a carafe of wine costs only like 4 euros, what a deal. The next night, for Max's birthday, we went to Locanda del Colonnello, which was likely the best we had. We sat outside in a courtyard of an old building towards the top of Modica Alta. We tried the Italian style dinner: appetizer, pasta (primi) then meat/fish (secondi), followed by dessert. The atmosphere, the families dining around us, the food, the company, the fresh air - all of it perfect. A nearby wine bar, Rappa Enoteca, is another place we spent an evening. We ordered a bottle of white wine from Mount Etna area recommended to us and enjoyed it with local cheeses, meat and bread. A bottle of espumante (sparking wine) to take away and sip on our balcony of course. For sweets, try Cafe Adamo and Latteria, both serve a variety of cremolatas and gelatos at all hours of the day.

Really, Modica was just magical - the glowing colors at sunset, the outstanding flavors made with fresh ingredients, the friendly people, the winding streets and stairs that smell of fig tree and jasmine.

NOTO

We visited Noto and the surrounding area twice on our stay. One night was spent at Borgo Alveria near Noto Antica. A borgo is a farmhouse, which in Italy is called agriturismo - essentially a farm that offers rooms, luxurious surroundings, and often delicious cuisine from the farm. The borgo is pretty remote but definitely worth the drive. The property is beautiful - truly rustic, stylishly redone bathrooms, a simple pool, large olive and fruit trees (many of which were flowering), old brick walls, hammocks and the vibe of relaxed living. In the wintertime, the borgo uses the old barn (which has been redone with the most perfectly rustic style) to serve elaborate dinners. Note that only a few rooms are available here, so it does not have a true hotel feel and is a bit difficult to determine what is available, but luckily we were able to communicate well enough to ask for dinner. Just as the sun was setting, which of course makes the dusty landscape glow, we were served a delicious meal cooked by the chef on staff - wine, various bruschetta with octopus and ricotta, the local eggplant dish called caponata, black rice with shrimps and of course a fruit plate and gelato pie. Our time at the borgo was pretty perfect and I was able to spend a lot of time painting by the pool while Max "read" (aka napped). Everything just felt right - simple and beautiful at the same time. The roads surrounding Noto were another highlight for me. I don't usually like driving, and we were a bit more hesitant this time because the first rental car place turned us down without an International Drivers License. However, the windy roads through Sicilian countrysides are hard to not enjoy. We turned on the AC and some favorite music and drove up and around hills, on dirt roads through farms, the sun shining through the golden landscape, and the two of us enjoying the simplicity of vacation life.

The other visit to Noto was to the actual city. Another stunner. Noto has a main street with many sites to see. I would recommend walking down and around this main strip and popping into many churches, duomos and buildings. All of them are unique and worth at least a gander. Also, don't miss a stop by Pasta Fresca da Sabrina to buy some fresh pasta for only a few euros. For lunch, our final pasta gorge, we tried Trattoria Mangia e taci. Italians know how to do it!

Other activities

Enjoy the country roads. The drivers here are insane, like we literally saw about 500 almost accidents. Take the country roads instead - they are safer and also so beautiful. It's a really great way to experience the rural Sicilian lifestyle too.
Take a hike to Cavagrande in the Nature Reserve. This hike is straight down into a canyon that has lakes for swimming. Unfortunately we didn't make it all the way down because of a hurt foot, but I would definitely go back for an afternoon of outdoor exploration and cliff jumping into blue waters.
Swim in the Mediterranean. The waters are crystal clear and an ideal soaking temperature. We visited Lido di Noto, Avola, Eloro and Sampieri beaches My favorite was probably Eloro because it is just inside another Natural Reserve and not commercial at all. All of the beaches are packed with families and colorful umbrellas, so prepare to people watch and hopefully catch some relaxation.

Food & Drink

It wouldn't be a trip to Sicily if each of these aren't tried, or if you're us, eaten many times every single day.

Caponata - a Sicilian eggplant and vegetable dish
Pasta alla Norma - another Sicilian sauce that is made with eggplant and tomato and served with pasta and salted ricotta. We learned to cook this in our class and use spaghetti. Invite us over for dinner and we will make it for you too!
Cremolata or Granite - this is a local sweet which is perfect in the summer heat. It is essentially flavored shaved ice but somehow has a creamy texture. My favorite flavor was ricotta and almond, but the lemon was refreshing too.
Arancini - a snack that is basically Ragu (or another flavor, spinach was my favorite because it was mostly cheese), wrapped in risotto, breaded then fried.
Gelato - get it from literally every street corner, all of it is to die for. Also it can be served in a brioche which is a must try but I found to be a bit heavy.
Olive oil - it would be impossible to avoid this actually. Olive oil is used with everything, so much of it, and it is so green and fresh and delicious.
Cannoli - I didnt even think I liked these, but probably ended up with about one a day. My favorite was the plain simple one
Ricotta - eat it in every form possible: plain, salted, fresh, as a flavor, on top of pasta, alone, stuffed in a shell, anyway you do it, it's amazing!
Fresh pasta - we made it through 13 different pasta dishes over our stay, and although even the store bought pasta is tasty and always perfectly al dente, definitely make it a point to try handmade pasta too