San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

San Miguel de Allende is a picturesque town in the mountains of northern Mexico. I was lucky enough to spend a long Christmas holiday here with my family enjoying the local flavors, smiling people and colorful streets. The city is popular for Mexican vacationers and American expats so it is a comfortable place to visit but still provides a rich cultural experience. San Miguel de Allende has a history of being a town for artists which has persisted through the years. Now it is a great place to explore quality local craft. A rising popularity in recent years also means a wonderful place for delicious meals, of the Mexican variety of course. San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO world heritage site, the buildings and many churches in the area are stunning with their pink hues. It is not the easiest place to get to without a close a airport, but it is absolutely worth it for a week of Mexican adventure.

DO

There is so much to see and do in San Miguel de Allende. One of the best things is just wandering the cobblestone streets and absorbing the colors, the smells and the chattering Mexican families. The streets around the Parroquia in the main square are some of the most bustling - wander these streets to find local crafts and upscale art galleries. I probably walked up and down the same street ten times during my stay and found something new each time. One could also spend hours sitting on a bench in the main square watching all the activity and life go by. Be sure to go into the Parroquia here as well.

Markets are of course one of my favorite activities in life, whether it be a craft market, a farmers market, a fish market, etc. In San Miguel de Allende, the markets are FABULOUS. Here are a few that should not be missed.

Mercado de Artesanias - this artisan market winds it's way through the center of town and is packed full of souvenirs of all varieties
Fabrica la Aurora - an old textile factory that now houses art galleries and local boutiques. It sits a short walk outside the center, but it is well worth the walk. Explore all corners and ask the artists about their crafts!
Tianguis Orgánico San Miguel de Allende (TOSMA) - we almost missed this one, and boy would that have been a bummer. This is a huge farmers market that happens every Saturday. Stalls line the inside of two buildings and overflow to the streets outside. You can buy high quality food and locally made products here. Be sure to eat lunch at the food stalls out back to try some Mexican flavors made on the spot.
Doce 18 Concept House - this is an old building that has been newly converted to trendy space that is filled with upscale shops and a Mexican-ish food court. The building itself is beautiful and worth a visit.

San Miguel de Allende is also known for the hot springs that surround the area. It is possible to go directly to the various spas, but we opted for a bike ride with Bici Burro (highly recommended company) in the desert outside the city that ended at La Gruta Hot Springs. I must say, soaking in warm water and standing under waterfalls in caves is a wonderful way to end a long bike trip. Another option is to pick a spa at one of the nice hotels in town. We tried Matilda Spa for a body wrap and facial, a relaxing and rejuvenating treat to say the least.

Another place that must be visited in San Miguel de Allende is Charco Del Ingenio botanical gardens. Normally when I think of botanical gardens I imagine lush greenery and flowers, and that was definitely not the case here, but it was one of the most amazing botanical gardens I have ever been to. The grounds are filled with trails that wind through cactus gardens, rock sculptures, green houses with succulent displays, and along cliffs overlooking a river. Walk as many trails as possible and take photos in front of the pokey plants.

So really, our favorite things to do - shop the local art, cook with fresh food, take photos, find cactuses, lay by the pool, watch a sunset from the balcony, go into old buildings and churches, wander the streets, and of course eat.

Food & Drink

El Manantial - Go here, every single day, like we did. This is a neighborhood bar and restaurant near where we stayed that serves delicious food and margaritas. Try the ceviche tostada for sure as it is "the thing to get", but my favorite was by far the butter shrimp taco which consisted of a soft tortilla, shrimp, avocado, beans and butter. YUM. And a ginger margarita for good measure of course.
Aperi - This is an upscale restaurant in the Dos Casas boutique hotel. My family celebrated Christmas Eve here with a long fixed menu dinner. Every course was delicious and unique. We opted for the booze pairing as well and were pleasantly surprised with a variety of different cocktails and wines to match the subtly Mexican flavors.
Café San Agustín - Best in town, freshly made churros, in some cases stuffed with nutella. Enough said.
Cumpanio - A little shop that sells Mexican pastries for sit in or to go. To be honest, I don't think pastries here compete with many other places in the world, but when in need of a buttery, flakey treat then this is the place to go.
El Correo - This is just a restaurant we found when looking for dinner one night, but we really enjoyed the food and actually ate here twice. The tortilla soup is highly recommended. Expert tip - be sure to add crema on top, lots of it.
Luna Rooftop - This is a rooftop bar on top of one of the fanciest hotels in SMA, so in my opinion it was overpriced and not as tasty. However it does provide a great view over the city, and we came here to celebrate a new job with appetizers, tequila shots and margaritas.
Via Organica - A small organic restaurant and market that provides fresh produce for many of the local expats. Come here for a much needed vegetable or green juice if you get the craving.
El Vergel Bistro - This is a restaurant we stopped at on the way back into town after the bike tour. It is run by a friend of the guide. We had a delicious burger sitting in the shade outside in the garden lined with cactuses. There is also a small market and art gallery on the property.